Ok when I did the conversion on my car I used the 1972 setup from a new yorker, master, prop valve, and complete spindles. I am not happy with the way this
stops. It seems to me that the rear brakes are stronger than the fronts, no brake stands for me it will push the front. I have been looking and am I supposed
to have another valve in the rear brake line (hold off valve) ? or do I just ax the prop valve assembly and use a complete adjustable setup?
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disc conversion
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 monacoman |
disc conversion |
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Posts: 569 (07/06/09 12:22 AM) |
Kevin ,
Central Wisconsin , 1965 Monaco , 1965 Custom 880 http://webpages.charter.net/moony/ |
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Thrashingcows |
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Posts: 2473 (07/06/09 01:46 AM) On This Site Too Damn Much |
Did you use the proportioning valve from the 72? If not then you will definetly have problems.
From what I've read and researched the best set-up would be to plumb the front brake lines directly to your master...just tee them together and hook them directly to the front resevoir of your master. Now for the back brakes you'll need to tee them as well and then run an adjustible pressure valve after the tee and on big long line to the back of the car. This set-up will do wonders for your stopping...I wish I had know this before I did the 73 upgrade on my wagon since I used the proportioning valve and although it stops well I'm sure it would be even better in the above mention configuration...well one day I'll redo it. 
Brian
02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi 3.5 V6/A606 auto
87 Dodge Ram 360/auto
68 Chrysler T/C Station Wagon 440/auto
The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory. |
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Alpha Mopar |
Parts | ||
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Posts: 420 (07/06/09 05:25 AM) Admin |
Also, even if you are running the correct prop valve it may be bad. After all it is 37 years old.
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monacoman |
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Posts: 569 (07/06/09 12:31 PM) |
Yes I am running the 72 prop valve, and I totally agree with alpha that being 37 years old it may be bad, I have another used valve but if I am going to go
through the trouble of pulling it out I think I am going to put an adjustable one in and be in total control. I'm thinkin of this one, i wont use the
switch but it looks like a nice all in one unit. http://www.speedwaymotors...e-Light-Switch,6160.html
Kevin ,
Central Wisconsin , 1965 Monaco , 1965 Custom 880 http://webpages.charter.net/moony/ |
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cyborc |
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Posts: 1233 (07/06/09 05:25 PM) Top Fuel Nitromethane Hemi Status |
You didn't mention what vacuum booster you're using. I installed a 1973 system on my hardtop, but I am using an aftermarket prop valve plumbed as
Thrashingcows described. Your description sounds like my brakes when I was still running the drum booster. I was unable to lock-up the front wheels in a panic
stop on dry pavement til I installed the correct booster.
Cheers, Mike
1966 Chrysler Windsor 2DHT, 1966 Chrysler Newport conv.
Bro: 1966 Chrysler NYer Town Sedan, Dad: 1966 Chrysler Windsor sedan. Save the whales... collect the whole set! http://www3.sympatico.ca/mikek/ 
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jazzandmoparguy |
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Posts: 3921 (07/06/09 06:03 PM) |
Brian, I'm interested in this running the fronts directly from the front reservoir (rear bowl) of the master, and using the pressure valve on the rear
line.
Who makes the pressure adjuster unit, and what does it look like? Are you using two? You said: "......for the back brakes you'll need to tee them as well and then run an adjustible pressure valve after the tee and on big long line to the back of the car....."I figure you just mean one, on the long line back to the rear of the car. The reason I ask, is while I am quite satisfied with the brakes on the T&C, and I'm using all the correct parts (booster, master, prop valve etc etc), I can't do a brake stand either with the car, and I would like a bit more braking power. The brakes are nice and smooth, powerful, highway friendly, but I don't think they're as well biased towards the front as they could be. Give me some more info if you can. Thanks! 
Jazzandmoparguy 1966 Canadian Dodge Monaco 440 4-speed 1966 Canadian Dodge Monaco 383 Automatic, LOADED! 1966 Canadian Chrysler T&C Wagon 440 TNT, Dual A/C, Autopilot |
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Thrashingcows |
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Posts: 2473 (07/06/09 06:33 PM) On This Site Too Damn Much |
Well this will be the third time typing this out...
Ross...You are right about only needing the one valve to the rear brakes...guess ther is only the one line running rearwards...Ooops. 
You can use a valve from Wilwood or another supplier if you wish. Should be something like this, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wilwood-260-8419-Adjustable-Brake-Proportioning-Valve_W0QQitemZ120434491235QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item1c0a747f63&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1171 I have got this information from several different people over the internet, one of whom is Scott (Nfury8). Seems like this is the best way to get the maximum efficiency out of your braking system. The proportioning valves were a comprosmise so that the didn't have to have specificly tunned brakes parts and valves for every car and it's particular weight and size.
Brian
02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi 3.5 V6/A606 auto
87 Dodge Ram 360/auto
68 Chrysler T/C Station Wagon 440/auto
The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory. |
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jazzandmoparguy |
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Posts: 3921 (07/06/09 10:35 PM) |
Thanks Brian. Are you pissed at me or at the computer? Sorry if it's me!
Jazzandmoparguy 1966 Canadian Dodge Monaco 440 4-speed 1966 Canadian Dodge Monaco 383 Automatic, LOADED! 1966 Canadian Chrysler T&C Wagon 440 TNT, Dual A/C, Autopilot |
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monacoman |
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Posts: 569 (07/07/09 12:49 AM) |
I am running the 72 booster also, I tore another prop valve I had laying around apart today to see what makes it tick. Not to much in there a spring and some
seals, I also tapped on the little button sticking out of my valve on my car and have seemed to get a little more movement out of it now , but still not happy.
I think i will be going the way of t-ing the front lines and installing an adjustable valve to the rears so I have control.
Kevin ,
Central Wisconsin , 1965 Monaco , 1965 Custom 880 http://webpages.charter.net/moony/ |
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monacoman |
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Posts: 569 (07/07/09 12:57 AM) |
Ok looks like I may have the cleanest looking setup figured out. www.inlinetube.com Part number BLK243 is a distribution block that mounts in the stock
location and uses most of the factory lines, I also need to plumb in a adjustable for the rear yet.
Kevin ,
Central Wisconsin , 1965 Monaco , 1965 Custom 880 http://webpages.charter.net/moony/ |
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Thrashingcows |
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Posts: 2473 (07/07/09 01:00 AM) On This Site Too Damn Much |
Nah not mad at you Ross....I typed up my and hit the "post" button and everything disappeared...
Did it a second time and the same thing...took me the third time to actually save a copy before I hit the post button... 
Monacoman...sucks that your system aint performing the way it should...is there a chance you maybe plumbed the prop. valve wrong? But if your going to replumb things I guess it really don't matter.
Brian
02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi 3.5 V6/A606 auto
87 Dodge Ram 360/auto
68 Chrysler T/C Station Wagon 440/auto
The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory. |
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monacoman |
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Posts: 569 (07/07/09 01:11 AM) |
Na its plumbed correctly, Lines are easy to make thats not an issue. I just want to do this once so I think the adjustable is the way to go, I just wish I
would have known about this when the front end of the car was totally off , it would have made things alot easier.......
Kevin ,
Central Wisconsin , 1965 Monaco , 1965 Custom 880 http://webpages.charter.net/moony/ |
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jazzandmoparguy |
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Posts: 3921 (07/07/09 10:01 AM) |
Yeah, I figured that's what was happening Brian.
 Just wanted to
make sure though!
Jazzandmoparguy 1966 Canadian Dodge Monaco 440 4-speed 1966 Canadian Dodge Monaco 383 Automatic, LOADED! 1966 Canadian Chrysler T&C Wagon 440 TNT, Dual A/C, Autopilot |
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cyborc |
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Posts: 1233 (07/07/09 03:09 PM) Top Fuel Nitromethane Hemi Status |
BTW, when I plumbed my disc brake setup, I used my original distribution block as the tee for the front brakes. Didn't even need to disconnect the front
brake lines from it.
I plugged the original port from the MC with an "invert flare plug", If I recall correctly, the needed plug was a Weatherhead 131X4. They are available at NAPA and other parts stores. Then I plumbed the large (disc brake) reservoir to the port that used to be for the rear brakes, since it's the standard-size flare fitting. For the rear brakes, I plumbed the MC small reservoir to an SSBC adjustable prop valve then a short length of brake line to an "invert flare union" (Weatherhead 302X3 I think) to connect it to the original rear brake line which was removed from the distribution block. I did exactly the same thing when converting my convertible from single-reservoir MC to 2-reservoir MC, but didn't need the prop valve so the plumbing was even simpler.
1966 Chrysler Windsor 2DHT, 1966 Chrysler Newport conv.
Bro: 1966 Chrysler NYer Town Sedan, Dad: 1966 Chrysler Windsor sedan. Save the whales... collect the whole set! http://www3.sympatico.ca/mikek/
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monacoman |
Update | ||
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Posts: 569 (07/19/09 11:17 PM) |
Well after stomping on the pedal pretty much everyday it seems I have more brakes but still not right, I believe the prop valve to be the culprit and that it
is stuck inside. I ordered an adjustable prop valve from summit tonight and also ordered a line lock (hell if I'm in there screwing with the lines might as
well put in it). So we'll see what happens when I get in installed.
Kevin ,
Central Wisconsin , 1965 Monaco , 1965 Custom 880 http://webpages.charter.net/moony/ |
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