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Have you switched to an electronic voltage regulator or still the original-style electro-mechanical one? Have you pulled apart the bulkhead connector, inspected and cleaned it? Is your original in-dash ammeter still in the circuit?

Cheers,
Mike

I was thinking about this more and you could also have a grounding problem. Check all your ground connections, including where the voltage regulator is bolted to the firewall. It grounds through the case.

Definitely pull apart your bulkhead connector though, if you haven't done so before. Spray it with contact cleaner, and if all the terminals look good, apply a liberal coating of dielectric grease before reassembling.

Disconnecting the bulkhead connector is straightforward, but if you find heat-related damage then repairing it may be lengthy. It's located on the firewall near the starter relay and voltage regulator. If the power terminals have corroded and become resistive, they may have heated up enough that they're not held firmly in the plastic shell, so they won't go back together properly when you push the connector together again. You may need to get a helper to push on the affected terminal from under the dash while you push the connector back on from the firewall side. If the damage is more extensive, replacement terminals are available from NAPA, OR remove the affected wire from both sides of the bulkhead connector, reinstall the bulkhead connector then drill-out that location. Then you can pass a heavy-gauge wire through and connect it where the original wire went, and it will still look factory.

Some people would also recommend bypassing the in-dash ammeter at the same time because it's a "weak link" in the charging system. I like having both the ammeter and voltmeter though. Realize that a fault somewhere else in the charging system that causes a sustained high load can cause the ammeter to have a "meltdown" and either leave you stranded or start an under-dash fire in the worst case scenario.

I think I tied my voltmeters into the accessory circuit like you did. Connecting to the POWER side of the ballast resistor is a good idea though, because that is the same node where the voltage regulator senses the system voltage from.

There are replacement electronic voltage regulators that look just like the factory electromechanical one, so looking at the big black metal can is not conclusive. The OEM electromechanical Vregs have a wire-wound resistor across the back. Electronic Vregs do not. That's the easiest way to tell. Remove it from the firewall and look at the back. I got fooled by that myself once. I assumed the Vreg in my convertible was original when I bought it so I bought a new electronic replacement. Then I discovered it was already electronic so I reinstalled it and put the new one on a shelf.

Cheers,
Mike