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Another disc conversion questions.

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SuperDave67	Another disc conversion questions.	Lead	[-]
Posts: 138 (07/08/09 04:45 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I know this has been covered way too much but I can't seem find a definite answer, I can't seem to do a search of the forums. I've got a 67 Fury (that was originally a manual drum car) with the discs off a 72 with an adjustable proportioning valve plumbed to the rear. The spindles and discs are already on, a disc brake master cylinder on and just need to reattach the brake pedal and booster. My questions is which booster do I need? Do I want to use a booster for a 72 or the 67 booster for the disc/drum combo. Unfortunately the 72 parts car is long gone but I've got a 67 power drum car for parts if there are other parts I need. Thanks in advance for the help, Dave
monacoman	booster	#1	[-]
Posts: 569 (07/08/09 10:41 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I would try what you have, but I would think you probably You should have the booster off the donor car or at the least something near the donor. Kevin , Central Wisconsin , 1965 Monaco , 1965 Custom 880 http://webpages.charter.net/moony/
cyborc		#2	[-]
Posts: 1233 (07/08/09 11:41 PM) Top Fuel Nitromethane Hemi Status Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Typically you would want to find the booster for a 67 with front discs. That is guaranteed to work with no fitment hassles if you originally had power drum brakes, but may be difficult to find. If you originally had manual brakes, you'll need to find the firewall plate and brake pedal assembly from a power drum car as well. If you have column shift, a later dual-diaphragm booster should also work. The later single-diaphragm booster will only work if you have floor shift, because the larger diameter of this booster will hang-up your shifter linkage otherwise. I have floor shift and bought a 1971-73 single-diaphragm booster for my 66. I had some fitment issues that required opening the hole in the firewall and other messing around because the arm that connects to the brake pedal is longer than my original drum booster. This advice would be correct for a 66 and I assume a 68 would be the same. Cheers, Mike 1966 Chrysler Windsor 2DHT, 1966 Chrysler Newport conv. Bro: 1966 Chrysler NYer Town Sedan, Dad: 1966 Chrysler Windsor sedan. Save the whales... collect the whole set! http://www3.sympatico.ca/mikek/
SuperDave67		#3	[-]
Posts: 138 (07/09/09 05:03 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Thanks for the help. I've got the backing plate and pedal assembly of a 67 power drum car but will be buying the booster since I don't have a disc brake booster. It'll cost a bit more but I'll just buy a booster for a 67 with discs so I know it will fit. Thanks again.
MoeParson	Here's a pic of the booster Ma Mopar used on '67 disc brake C-body	#4	[-]
Posts: 30 (07/10/09 01:33 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	It's a Bendix dual diaphragm unit, and finding one will be pricey because it is the SAME unit spec'd for Hemi powered disc brake cars, don'tcha know Here's the original drum power brake booster in my 300 It has since been replaced and a Mopar aluminum master cylinder with the replacement booster is working things now. It stops as good if not a bit better than the G6 Pontiac I rented last week to drive out to Colorado and back.
hotrodfury	brake swap ? also	#5	[-]
Posts: 124 (07/11/09 01:12 AM) 440+6 Status Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	i found a site , a place called scare birds, that has a set of steel plates that bolt right onto the regular drum spindals on our fury from power drums on the front,to power disk without changing the ball joints over they say that they use callipers and pads from a dodge ram and the rotors from an early ford ,70/72/3, i was wondering has anybody done it this route? and did it go as simple as it sounds, i did ask them and they said i would still need to change master cylinders alsoheres a link to the ebay auction where i first found them http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaym...IT&item=220425825814
hotrodfury	brake swap ? also	#6	[-]
Posts: 124 (07/11/09 01:14 AM) 440+6 Status Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	i found a site , a place called scare birds, that has a set of steel plates that bolt right onto the regular drum spindals on our fury from power drums on the front,to power disk without changing the ball joints over they say that they use callipers and pads from a dodge ram and the rotors from an early ford ,70/72/3, i was wondering has anybody done it this route? and did it go as simple as it sounds, i did ask them and they said i would still need to change master cylinders also
Thrashingcows		#7	[-]
Posts: 2473 (07/11/09 03:42 AM) On This Site Too Damn Much Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hotrod fury: I don't know how they work, but price things out and then compare it to what it woud cost to get a factory 73 disc spindles and set-up...you won't need to change ball joints or anything with the 73 set-up. IMO... Using a factory engineered set-up would be preferable but who knows? Brian 02 Chrysler Concorde Lxi 3.5 V6/A606 auto 87 Dodge Ram 360/auto 68 Chrysler T/C Station Wagon 440/auto The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory.
stubs 300		#8	[-]
Posts: 109 (07/14/09 03:09 PM) 426 Hemi Status Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	You could keep it simple and use the SSBC system. You won't have to change rims, however I need a 5/8" spacer to make work.

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